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Monday, 20 June 2016 09:35

Beni to Dolpo trek itinerary, Beni to Dolpo trek via Dhorpatan, cost and permit of Beni to Dolpo trek,Reviews and blog of Beni to Dolpo trek


Beni to Dolpa Trek

Before starting the dolpo trek there are many question coming in my mentality for the preparation the trekking. I question myself about the budget, equipment and preparation of the Dolpo trek Nepal.

How can I manage the budget for the Dolpo trek?

Foods , Accommodation  and transportation are the major expenses of the dolpo trek. Instead of flying from Nepalgunj to Juphal, we decided to take a bus and walking. For the Accommodation we buy a tent  instead to  stay in the Hotel. For the food, we decided to cook ourselves. As we are Nepalese people we have not pay to upper and lower dolpo restriction fee. Upper dolpo permit fee $500 usd for the 10 days. Lower Dolpo permit fee $70 usd for one week. If one stay in the Hotel, priced of Nepalese people and foreign people are same.

What is the transportation for the Dolpo trek?

Plane, bus are the transporation for the dolpo trek. There is possible to fly from Nepalgunj to Juphal if you like to start trekking from Dunai-juphal. You can go Juphal by bus first Musikot of Rukum district then jeep to Tribeni. It is possible one or two days to reach juphal from there then start the trekking of Dolpo.

Jomsom is another point of starting trekking both Plane and bus possible to reach Jomsom. Then walking to Dolpo Via Charka Bhot.

How I arrangement the equipment of the Dolpo?

I buy a small tent, Gas Burner. I already have Gas and other cooking pots. We buy some porridge. As we are working as a trekking guide, other accessory things we have already.

Why I go to Dolpo trek?

Trekking is my profession. I been already many trekking areas as a trekking Guide. I was impression by the movie caravan. I dinot chances to go with the customer so I plan myself go there explore and visiting the places. It is both hobby and my profession.

13 Jestha 2073 we leave Kathmandu to Dolpo trek. Our original planning was from Jomsom to Chharka Bhot then continue to the Tinje, saldang, Sheygomba and Phoksundo Lake. After reach Beni, our route to dolpo trek change , so that we follow the route of the Peter Matthiessen who is writer of popular book called “The Snow Leopard” There are many option to go dolpo trek and many choice point. I have a ambition to go from jumla and some times I imagine to go upper dolpa via Jomsom. While some times via Beni –Dhorpatan. We only able to give decision after reaching the Beni. Finally from Dhorpatan we take a way to go dolpo. Any way from a single time we have no chances be everywhere. Our Dolpo trek starting from Beni and ended to the Jumla then by bus to Kathmandu from Jumla.

Day 1. Kathmandu to Beni by bus.

We ride Night bus from Kathmandu and morning we reached in the Beni. We meet other local travellers , one of them are acquainted with us.

Day 2.Beni to Phalegaon by bus

We Changed our idea then we decided to to go Dolpa via Dhorpatan. So, due to the no more rain fall we got direct bus ticket to Phalegaon.

We took the bus from Beni to Phale gaon. From Durbang bus extension to the Dharapani-Sibang-Phalegaon. We camp and tent in the School of Phalegaon.

Day 3.Phalegaon to Moreani

We walked to moreani from Phalegaon. It took us 6 hours to reach the Moreani from Phalegaon. We cooked launch at Lamsum village. Then up to the Moreani.

Day4.Moreani to Gujraghat Via Jaljala Lek

From Moreani even local people said it is 2 hours up to the Jaljala but for us it took 3-4 hours. My friend said he is victory of the Jaljala(3450m). I was excited no much up further but there was still more up to go Dolpa. Jaljala was just first Challenge in our trip. From Jaljala trail was flat and easier we reached Gurja Ghat. We stay in the Hotel instead to stay in the tent.

Day5.Gujraghat to Dhorpatan

Just walked four days from Ghurjhaghat to Dhorpatan. Then, we stay there also in the home instead to tent.

Day6.Dhorpatan to Thankur(3370m)

This day is quite challenging. Phagune lek(pass) 4150m  height. Dhorpatan is just 2800 m, 1350 Meter above from Dhorpatan. It is easier than moreni but last part trail was no steep but tired due to the  high altitude. It takes us 3 hours down to the Thankur(3370m).

Day7. Thankur to Tatopani(2540m)

From Thankur we get down about 2 hours then 3 hours up to the Kamdanda. It takes us 8 hours to reach tatopani.

Day8. Tatopani to Dhule and Sangkhola

According to the itinerary plan was just Dhule but we reached Dhule in the Launch Time. Then, we try to walk Sangkhola but become late after rain. It was become dark when we been in Sangkhola.

Day9.Sangkhola to Jyangla

After Sangkhola it takes 2 hours up to Pupal tal then walk up to the valley then down to the Purbang. From purbang another challenging up to the pass of the Purbang. Then, trail flat and widely to the base of the Jhangla(4550m). After pass Jhangla we walked to the 1 hours down . then we stay in the tent.

Day10. Jyangla to Dunai

From the Narrow Gorge of the river and ravine we down to Dunai. Through the forest, river we getting down  to the Dunai Bazzar. It takes us 5  hours to be there. Now we feel hot than Jyangla. We meet one couple in Dunai who are come to dolpa by inspiration the Caravan movie. They visit Phoksundo lake without passing Numba la and Baga la. Dunai-Tarakot to Dho Trap valley and Dunai to Phoksundo valley they visit separately. They told there 15 years dream to come dolpa fulfill. Tomorrow morning I bye friend who are together going Dhorpatan to Dunai. Because of long day walk and difficult of high passes he was tired to go Phoksundo lake and further.

Day 11. Dunai to Chekpa and Renchi

I go to the Juphal to bye the friend who like to back Kathmandu from mountain. Originally we had no any plan to back by plane but long walked in the mountain makes tired. From Juphal to Suligad I walk then checking  by the National park by Army I entered the park. I thought trail is difficult but I found it is along the river.

Thourghout the foksundo river trail is moving up to the phoksundo. Relatively , it is easier then the way of the Dhorpatan. One phoksundo river we crossing many times. Even I make a plan to stay in the Chekpa I reached in the  Renchi. After Chekpa there are  tented camp make for the Hotel. Down to Renchi and after chekpa  in the isolated places there are hotel. I feel very tired just single person there in the hotel no more customer. There are also no phone connection, in the gorge of the river just one man who is owner of hotel. Iam terrified so much so that I walked and passed this place very fast. Finally I reached renchi village. Most of the village was empty no man because there are going to pick up YarcharGumba. I meet one house where people are staying who are back there after picking the yarchargumba.

Day 12. Chekpa Renchi to Phoksundo Lake

Last 2 hours way is difficult  before phoksundo. There are falls of the phoksundo  and point of photography. I meet the some Nepali travelers there. As soon as I reached phoksundo lake I meet the person who told , he also come to visit phoksundo lake but  in reality he is from there and has been there since 30 years work as a business man and teacher. His name  is Bal Bhadur Kc. He explain about the different trekking agency who operated the  Dolpo treks. According to him, per  year 1200 tourist trekking in Dolpo. He knows iam there not only travel but explore the dolpo for the future customer.

Day 13. Rest day in Phoksundo Lake

I try to go further from phoksundo lake but I have no friend. Shey Gumba was the two camps or 3 camps for the  foreigners. When the Maoists attacked Beni in 2004, thousands of guerrillas trekked up and down the rugged mountains of central Nepal from Rukum.

Led by the present Maoist PLA Commander, Nanda Kishore Pun (Pasang), the guerrillas probably were not in the mood to admire the scenery. More than 100 people were killed in the Battle for Beni as the fighting raged all night in the district capital of Myagdi.

The Maoists carried their wounded and walked back to Rukum and Rolpa, with the army in hot pursuit. They were bombed from the air by helicopters and suffered serious casualties.

Now, trekkers can retrace the footsteps of the guerrillas and imagine what it must have been like to hike and fight in this kind of terrain. The trail starts in Beni, skirts Baglung, passes the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve and on to Rukum and Rolpa and take up to 13 days.

All along, there are spectacular views of the Dhaulagiri range from high ridges and large meadows fringed by pine forests.

Says Kuber Bista of the Nepal Tourism Board: "The trail has a historic attraction, but there are also challenges of infrastructure and making locals aware of how they can benefit from tourism."

NTB is partnering with the National Trust for Nature Conservation and the local Jaljala Tourism Development Committee to popularise the Rukum trekking route from the coming autumn season.

DAY 1: Kathmandu-Beni (8 hours by bus)

DAY 2: Beni to Takam (6 hours)

From the Myagdi district headquarter you follow a gravel road for 24km to Darbang and start walking. Takam is three hour walk away with Gurja Himal towering overhead.

DAY 3: Takam to Lamsung (6 hours)

This is where the scenery starts getting even more dramatic. This is what Nepal used to be like before the trekkers got here. Locals are not used to foreigners and have a lot of stories to tell about the war.

DAY4: Lamsung to Gurjaghat (7 hours)

Climb through dense pine forests, with musk deer darting in the undergrowth. The meadows on the ridge offer

180 degree views of Dhaulagiri and entire range up to Churen Himal in the west.

DAY 5: Gurjaghat to Dhorpatan (5 hours)

You cross over from Myagdi to Baglung and into the former Tibetan refugee camp which was serviced by an airfield built by the Swiss in the 1950s. This is also the entrance to the Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, where shooting mountain goats and blue sheep is now allowed for fee-paying professional hunters from all over the world.

Day 6: Dhorpatan to Nisi Dhor (5 hours)

This is the paradise for birds. Watch danphes, pheasants, and other migratory species that you have seen only in bird guides. Hard to imagine that people fought a war here. There are cow sheds in the monsoon, but in winter these high pastures are deserted.

DAY 7: Nisi Dhor to Tallo Sera (7 hours)

Cross over from Baglung to Rukum into Magar country and enter the former Maoist base area. There are dense forests all the way so it must have been easy to hide here from the helicopter patrols. The villages are picturesque and there is always some kind of Magar festival going on.

DAY 8: Tallo Sera Rujhikhola (6 hours)

Walk to Lukum in Rukum, a village populated only by Magars and Dalits. This is about as medieval as it gets in Nepal nowadays. Rujhikhola is where Pasang (now PLA commander) planned the Beni attack.

DAY 9: Rujhikhola to Thabang (5 hours)

Thabang is the cradle of the Maoist revolution. It was damaged in army attacks and parts of the town were flattened by 'tora bora' mortars shells dropped from helicopters. There has been some development of infrastructure after the war ended, and the people are eager and friendly.

DAY 10: Thabang to Jaljale (5 hours)

The highest point in Jaljala is Dharampani (3,900m) and there is a great view from Api-Saipal in the west to Dhaulagri in the east. This is also where the PLA was given weapons training during the war.

DAY 11: Jaljala to Jelbang (6 hours)

Now we're moving down from the high mountains and the villages are ethnically mixed.

DAY 12: (Jelbang to Suliochaur (6 hours)

This is where we finally get to Rolpa and the roadhead. Rolpa was also a rebel base area and for many of the ten years of war under total Maoist control. You can eat at one of many commune restaurants run by Maoist cooperatives, where staff are relatives of those who were killed in the fightings.

DAY 13: Sulichaur to Kathmandu (13 hours by bus)

Take a pillow.

More shooting

Gunfire is once more being heard in the Dhortpatan Hunting Reserve as professional hunters from all over the world come to this region below Dhaulagiri to bag trophies of blue sheep, mountain goat and other wildlife.

Royalty from the hunting is supposed to go to the government, with permits costing anything between $10,000 to $25,000. A park ranger is supposed to accompany the hunters, who fly in by helicopter direct from Kathmandu, take the horns and depart.

However, there are complaints from the hunting expeditions who say that despite having paid the permit fees to the Department of National Parks and Wildlife, they are extorted by locals. VDC committees in Rukum and local Maoists in Baglung charge up to Rs 100,000 from expeditions. In a recent incident, Maoists exploded pipe bombs to scare away animals when they didn't get the amount they had demanded, said a villager.

The most coveted trophy is blue sheep, but hunters can also shoot Himalayan tahr and deer. Endangered animals like leopards, black bear, red panda, danphe pheasants, musk deer are out of bounds for the hunters.

article 2. about Yarsa Trail

Jul 26, 2015-The Mid-western district of Rukum is celebrating this financial year as “Visit Rukum Year”, especially aimed at promoting the Guerrilla Trek.

Home to the famous Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, the district is also famous for Yarshagumba, a high-value Himalayan herb, and study centre of the Magar culture.

Known as “the place of 52 lakes and 53 hills”, Rukum has an immense potential to promote “war tourism” with the Guerrilla Trek. Rukum was one of the worst-affected districts by the Maoist insurgency that ended in 2006.

The “Guerrilla Trek” features base areas, camps and remains of the decade-long conflict between the state and the Maoists, and several other tourist sites.

The trek was developed in coordination with the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAN) and Nepal Tourism Board (NTB). US-based author Alonzo Lyons has also prepared a guide book.

According to the District Development Committee, Rukum has been witnessing a surge in the number of visitors. So far 25 trekking teams from within the country and abroad have mapped this trail.

There are tourist activities available throughout the year. During this time of the year, the trekkers can enjoy sightseeing of places where Yarshagumba is available. From Sept to Oct, visitors can experience hunting in the Dhorpatan Hunting Reservce, and in March-April, they can participate in local fares and Magar cultural activities.

According to the District Tourism Development Committee, there are three Guerrilla Trek routes. The first one can be explored in 19 days, and the second and third routes can be covered in 14 and 27 days, respectively.

All the routes start from Pokhara and ends in Rukum through places like Beni, Dhorpatan, Thawang, Syafru Daha, Mushi Kot, Rukum Kot, Sukul Bang, Jel Bang,

Khara, Maikot, Kyam, Pelma, Lackam and Bafikot, among others. “Locals have made arrangements for home stay at their own initiation at number of places, which has made it easier for operating the trek,” said Bharat Kumar Sharma, Local Development Officer and president of the Tourism Development Committee.

The locals say the visitors are especially interested in places that sustained major impact due to the conflict. They include Bajar Khaula, Khara Basti, Chunbang, Thawang, Mahat, Rukumkot and Mushikot. Other places of interest are Taksera, Rukumkot, Syapru Daha, Mushikot and Khara.

Most of the areas captured by the Maoists during the insurgency have been converted into tourist destinations. Two police stations -- Holeri and Aath Bish Kot -- the first two sites attacked by the Maoists fall along this route.

The trek also features a number of lakes, rivers, streams and temples, among others. Another attraction is the Dhaulagiri Mountain Range that the trekkers can enjoy. The tourists can also observe the hardships of the war-hit people and devastated physical infrastructure.

For foreign tourists and those from Kathmandu, the route from Pokhara has been opened. For others, a route has been opened from Dang, which leads to Salyan and Rolpa.

Guerilla trek report

Jul 26, 2015-The Mid-western district of Rukum is celebrating this financial year as “Visit Rukum Year”, especially aimed at promoting the Guerrilla Trek.

Home to the famous Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, the district is also famous for Yarshagumba, a high-value Himalayan herb, and study centre of the Magar culture.

Known as “the place of 52 lakes and 53 hills”, Rukum has an immense potential to promote “war tourism” with the Guerrilla Trek. Rukum was one of the worst-affected districts by the Maoist insurgency that ended in 2006.

The “Guerrilla Trek” features base areas, camps and remains of the decade-long conflict between the state and the Maoists, and several other tourist sites.

The trek was developed in coordination with the Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAN) and Nepal Tourism Board (NTB). US-based author Alonzo Lyons has also prepared a guide book.

According to the District Development Committee, Rukum has been witnessing a surge in the number of visitors. So far 25 trekking teams from within the country and abroad have mapped this trail.

There are tourist activities available throughout the year. During this time of the year, the trekkers can enjoy sightseeing of places where Yarshagumba is available. From Sept to Oct, visitors can experience hunting in the Dhorpatan Hunting Reservce, and in March-April, they can participate in local fares and Magar cultural activities.

According to the District Tourism Development Committee, there are three Guerrilla Trek routes. The first one can be explored in 19 days, and the second and third routes can be covered in 14 and 27 days, respectively.

All the routes start from Pokhara and ends in Rukum through places like Beni, Dhorpatan, Thawang, Syafru Daha, Mushi Kot, Rukum Kot, Sukul Bang, Jel Bang,

Khara, Maikot, Kyam, Pelma, Lackam and Bafikot, among others. “Locals have made arrangements for home stay at their own initiation at number of places, which has made it easier for operating the trek,” said Bharat Kumar Sharma, Local Development Officer and president of the Tourism Development Committee.

The locals say the visitors are especially interested in places that sustained major impact due to the conflict. They include Bajar Khaula, Khara Basti, Chunbang, Thawang, Mahat, Rukumkot and Mushikot. Other places of interest are Taksera, Rukumkot, Syapru Daha, Mushikot and Khara.

Most of the areas captured by the Maoists during the insurgency have been converted into tourist destinations. Two police stations -- Holeri and Aath Bish Kot -- the first two sites attacked by the Maoists fall along this route.

The trek also features a number of lakes, rivers, streams and temples, among others. Another attraction is the Dhaulagiri Mountain Range that the trekkers can enjoy. The tourists can also observe the hardships of the war-hit people and devastated physical infrastructure.

For foreign tourists and those from Kathmandu, the route from Pokhara has been opened. For others, a route has been opened from Dang, which leads to Salyan and Rolpa.

from expeirence of other trekkers

The Guerrilla Trek and Yarsa Trails are an utterly unique experience. Take an exhilarating odyssey through the heartland of post-conflict territory. This remote area where state forces clashed with Maoist rebels is now a tranquil land graced with many natural attractions that will compete for your attention every step of the way. Visitors will experience ancient villages surrounded by trilling birdsong and emerald and golden paddy fields. This area has a robust range of eco-diversity including Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve, Nepal's only hunting reserve. Wildlife, waterfalls, rivers, caves, lakes, hot springs, yarsagumba hunting grounds and the inspiring, snow-topped Himalaya to the north make this region an adventurer’s Nirvana. The cultural and natural treasures and attractions of The Guerril

la Trek and Yarsa Trails will be a lifetime highlight!

Yarsa trail report

Jagraj Pun, 38, took a long breath, prayed to his ancestors and pitched his tent on the banks of the icy cold stream. His wife held their two-year-old son and heat up the raksi jar. This is going to be their home for the next two months, and the family is getting comfortable after a long trek.

Here, in upper Rukum, it is the picking season for yarsagumba, the Himalayan caterpillar-fungus that is worth its weight in gold in China for its supposed aphrodisiac properties. Chinese medicine's demand for this creature is generating income for hundreds of thousands impoverished Nepali villagers from Humla to Gorkha.

Just on this one valley alone,there are 7,000 people, some of whom have trekked two weeks, from various parts of mid-western Nepal. The pickers each pay Rs 1,000 to a committee that organises the harvesting every season and provides security from armed robbers who prey on pickers.

Many like Jagraj have come with their families, entire villages in mid-western Nepal are padlocked during the yarsagumba picking season. The trail is steep and made more difficult by the sheer numbers of people.

At their destination in Pupal Valley, the official yarsagumba picking is declared by opening a gun shot, and suddenly thousands of people fan out like ants up the grassy slopes. It is strictly 'first come first gets' because yarsa harvests decline steadily in the two months that the pickers are here.

On the first day itself Dharmajit Pun of Pelma in Tukum found 45 caterpillars, a family of six found 30, Nainkala of Thabi in Rolpa found only one, and 19-year-old Hiramati of Ranma in Rukum hadn't found a single caterpillar even by the end of the second day.

Yarsagumba from Rukum and Dolpo are big and bright yellow and fetch the best prices. One kg of yarsgumba is worth Rs 30,000 here, but is Rs 100,000 in Kathmandu and US $8,000 by the time it gets to Shanghai. Yarsagumba worth Rs 1.4 million in Kathmandu was harvested here last year from this valley alone. An average family of four can earn up to Rs 140,000 in the two months they spend up here, but they have to spend about a quarter of that in food.

Old-timers say yarsagumba harvests are declining and there will come a time soon when the caterpillar-fungus and butterflies that they metamorphose from will bexxextinct in these mountains.I go up to the Yak falling place(in the movie caravan)

Day 14. Phoksundo Lake to Suligad(walking double camp)

After one day rest in Phoksundo instead to go towards shey gumba I back to the Suligad. I finised one days to back Dunai or Suligad from the shey phoksundo. Way is easier to back , all the way is down and easier. Near the  bridge to go Kagmara pass I thinking and dout  whether I go jumla from Kagmara or from Tripurakot. Some people suggest me go go from Kagmara lek while some people said me better to down easy and comfort way where is possibility house food than way of Kagmara. I was tired already so I decided to go easy way.

Day15.Suligad to Khula Ban

I decided to Darshan Bala Tripura Sundari in Tripurakot then as soon as get up , I paid the Bill then  decided to move without breakfast. I dnot know where I will reached today. I asked the people where is the todays destination or stopping point. Ghodaghari or khulaban is my point of staying. Finally I reached to Khula ban village. There was no hotel. Just they have system staying in Home. Iam very happy traditionally home staying system in Dolpo.

Day 16. Khulaban to Chaurikot

From khulaban to Balangra Lagna it takes me  3 hours then down to 4 hour to Khaigaon. Then up to the Rimi Gaon and further 1 hours to Chaurikot.

Day 17. Chaurikot to Monsanghu

It takes 4 hours to reach Mourya Lek then three hours to Chotro. From Chotoro took me 2 hours to reach Monsanghu.

Day18.Monsanghu to Jumla

After walking 2 hours we reached to the Ghothichour where are Goat farming. Again we walk 2 hours to come Sano Guhti. Then from 1 hours to back jumla Bazzar.

Day 19. Bus to Nepalgunj(Bus stop at Lawari Benshi) I stay at Namna then next afternoon I back to the Nepalgunj. Bus staying in the middle of the way.

Day 20. Bus to Nepalgunj

I arrive in Nepalgunj in the afternoon. Then, get a Night bus ticket to come in Kathmandu.

Day 21. Arrive in Kathmandu.

I arrive in Kathmandu afternoon. In the day of 21 finally I arrive. Still my dream to visit inner dolpa is not fulfill. Once again, I like to go there. When, I  donot know myself. I hope I reached there soon.

Attraction of our Dolpo trek

Jaljale and Dhorpatan: Seasonal cow  and sheep shed places of the local people from Phale gaon magdi and Burdibang Baglung.

Dhule,syangkhola, pupal, Jyangla pass: Place of the Yarchagumba last of may to the first week of june.

Juphal, Phoksundo lake, Juphal to Jumla trek: typical village of jumla and Dolpa. Mourya lek which is boarding point of Jumla and Dolpa.

Last Updated on Monday, 20 June 2016 14:04